Cotton is a fiber that’s woven, knitted, or felted to create a big range of fabrics. I’m going to explain 71 different types of cotton fabric, their names, and how they’re used.
In terms of visuals, I’m going to show:
- Close-up photos of my fabric samples.
- Photos of the fabrics made into real things, like clothes.
- Videos, so you can see how fabrics behave differently.
This is a very meaty post, so I recommend pinning this image to bookmark the post for later:
Heads up: This post includes affiliate links like Amazon ones, so I earn from qualifying purchases (at no cost to you). Thanks for using them 🙂
I’m getting my info from ‘Fabric for fashion: the swatch book’ by C. Hallett and A. Johnston (it has 125 real fabric samples inside!), Cotton Incorporated, the Britannica encyclopedia, dictionaries, and fabric stores.
I have a related post on the best types of cotton fabric for shirts, and an upcoming post on cotton sewing project ideas with patterns.
To buy cotton fabrics online, check out Fabric.com (USA), Minerva (UK), or My Fabrics UK.
If you want sewing ideas and free patterns every week, join my email list.
Click a cotton type to skip to that fabric:
| Cotton types: | Uses: |
|---|---|
| Batting / wadding | quilting |
| Bark weave | loose clothes |
| Basketweave | upholstery |
| Batiste | summer clothes |
| Bengaline | clothes |
| Broadcloth | clothes, shirts |
| Broderie anglaise | summer clothes |
| Brushed cotton | cold weather clothes |
| Calico | test garments |
| Cambric | clothes |
| Canvas (plain & duck) | bags, upholstery, utility |
| Chambray | clothes, shirts |
| Cheesecloth | making food |
| Chenille | blankets, clothes |
| Chino | clothes |
| Chintz | upholstery |
| Corduroy | clothes, upholstery |
| Crepe | clothes |
| Crossweave | clothes, shirts |
| Damask | clothes, upholstery |
| Denim | clothes |
| Double gauze | summer clothes |
| Drill | clothes |
| Flannel | cold weather clothes, shirts |
| Fleece | cold weather clothes, blankets |
| French terry | clothes |
| Gabardine | clothes |
| Gauze | summer clothes, sheer curtains |
| Gingham | summer clothes, shirts |
| Herringbone | clothes, upholstery |
| Jacquard | clothes, upholstery |
| Jersey | clothes |
| Lawn | summer clothes |
| Rib knit | clothes |
| Madras | clothes, shirts |
| Moleskin | cold weather clothes |
| Mousseline | test garments, other |
| Muslin | test garments, other |
| Organdie / organdy | clothes |
| Oxford | clothes, shirts |
| Pique | clothes |
| Plaid | clothes, shirts, upholstery |
| Plisse | summer clothes |
| Pointelle | clothes |
| Poplin | clothes, shirts |
| Quilting cotton | quilts |
| Sateen | bedding, clothes |
| Seersucker | summer clothes |
| Ticking | upholstery |
| Toweling | towels, robes, baby bibs |
| Twill | clothes, shirts |
| Velvet / velveteen | clothes, upholstery, curtains |
| Velour | clothes |
| Voile | summer clothes |
| Waffle / honeycomb | robes, towels |
| Windowpane | clothes, shirts, upholstery |
Cotton batting / wadding
What is batting? it’s a lofty non-woven material used in the middle of quilted textiles. It creates volume and adds padding for warmth and protection.
Weight: lightweight, but lofty.
Construction: non-woven.
How it feels: fluffy.
Video:
Cotton bark weave
What is bark weave? it’s a general description for fabrics with this bark-looking texture.
How it feels: it has a bumpy texture.
Uses: it’s not a very stable fabric, so it suits unstructured clothing.
Cotton basketweave
What is basketweave? it’s a textured fabric with a checkerboard look.
Weight: you can get this fabric in many weights, from light to heavy. It depends on the weight of the fiber used.
Construction: it’s a variation of the plain weave. 2+ warp yarns and/or 2+ filling yarns are woven together as one yarn to create a checkerboard effect (source).
How it feels: textured.
Drapey? no.
See-through? no.
Uses: upholstery projects like ottomans, headboards, and curtains.
Cotton batiste
What is cotton batiste? it’s a smooth and lightweight fabric that’s similar to cotton lawn, but it’s a bit thicker.
Better quality batiste is made from combed, not carded yarns. The combing process allows only long, parallel fibers to stay, creating a smoother and more lustrous appearance than carded yarns (more info here about carding/combing yarns).
The very best batiste fabrics are also yarn-mercerized or fabric-mercerized. This means the fabric is immersed in a solution to give it a slight sheen, improve its strength, and improve its reaction to dyes (source).
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: balanced “straight” weave. This implies that the warp and weft are equal (source).
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? there’s some drape, but it’s crisper than viscose or silk charmeuse.
See-through? some are semi-sheer and others are more non-see-through.
Uses: summer clothing, blouses, lingerie, and handkerchiefs.
Video:
Cotton bengaline
What is bengaline? it’s a fabric with a fine crosswise rib. The ribs are very subtle.
Bengaline can be made from many fibers, including cotton, polyester, rayon, etc. You’ll often see lycra / elastane added to give it some stretch, making it ideal for form-fitting trousers and dresses.
Weight: light to medium weight.
Construction: woven fabric.
How it feels: it’s quite smooth. The ribs are very fine and subtle, so the fabric doesn’t feel bumpy or highly textured.
Drapey? it depends on the weight. Some are drapey, but many have a crisp structure (source).
See-through? no.
Uses: it’s often used to make trousers, jackets, skirts, and dresses. When the fabric has some stretch, it suits form-fitting designs like in the photo below:
Video:
Cotton broadcloth
What is broadcloth? it’s a medium weight, plain weave fabric with a soft sheen and fine ribs.
Weight: medium weight.
Construction: plain weave. The fabric is tightly woven and it has very subtle small ribs.
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? no, it’s crisp and structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: shirts, crisp blouses, and skirts.
Video:
Cotton broderie anglaise
What is broderie anglaise? a fabric with embroidery and holes in it. It comes in many designs, but floral themes are very popular.
Weight: light to medium weight.
Construction: woven fabric.
How it feels: the main fabric is smooth, with bumpy embroidered surfaces.
Drapey? there’s some drape, but it’s more structured than silk charmeuse and viscose.
See-through? yes, through the holes. If the main fabric is white, it might be semi-sheer in general.
Uses: summer tops and dresses.
Video:
Brushed cotton
What is brushed cotton? it’s when one or both sides of a fabric are brushed, giving it a soft and fluffy feel. This also creates warmth, making it great for cold-weather clothing.
According to this book (Amazon link), brushing is sometimes used to disguise poorer quality fabrics (defined as fabrics with a loose weave, and/or lightly spun yarns).
By brushing the fabric, it gives it extra body and fullness, which hides any quality issues. There’s a higher likelihood that this ‘trick’ has happened when the fabric is brushed on both sides.
Here’s a great example I found in my fabric stash. This medium weight cotton has been brushed on both sides and has a loose weave (ie. it has bigger gaps between each yarn):
Weight: you can get this fabric in many weights, from light to heavy.
Construction: woven fabric. My first photo shows a twill weave (with diagonal ribs on the back), and my second photo shows a plain weave.
How it feels: soft and fluffy (on the brushed sides).
Drapey? it depends on the weight, which can vary. I made these pajamas from a lightweight, drapey brushed cotton. But the samples pictured above are stiffer and more structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: lightweight brushed cotton is often used in casual shirts and pajamas.
Video:
Cotton calico
What is calico? it’s known in the UK as an unfinished cotton fabric for making test garments. In the US, it’s called muslin.
Weight: light to medium weight.
Construction: plain weave. The fabric is not tightly woven, so you can see small gaps between each yarn.
How it feels: quite smooth (but not silky smooth).
Drapey? generally no, it has some structure.
See-through? no.
Uses: it’s often used in the fashion industry to make ‘toiles’ (test garments). It’s also used inside furniture to hold the stuffing.
Cotton cambric
What is cotton cambric? it’s a lightweight, closely woven fabric with a slight sheen on one side.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: plain weave and the fabric is tightly woven.
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? yes, but it’s not as drapey as silk charmeuse or chiffon.
See-through? generally no.
Uses: nightgowns, underwear, slips, handkerchiefs, and children’s dresses.
Cotton canvas (plain & duck)
What is canvas? it’s a general term used to describe plain-weave fabrics with a more substantial weight. There are two basic types: plain and duck. Duck canvas has a higher thread count and is more tightly woven than plain canvas. Canvas used to be made from hemp, but today it’s normally made from cotton (source).
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
Construction: plain weave.
How it feels: sturdy and slightly rough.
Drapey? no, it’s structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: bags, sneakers, blinds, beanbags, soft furnishings, and workwear. It’s also used outside of the home and wardrobe for tents, boat sails, tarpaulins, and awnings.
Video:
Cotton chambray
What is chambray? chambray fabrics have a subtle multi-colored look. This is because they’re made using two yarn colors; one yarn is normally white. When the other yarn is blue it looks like denim, but it’s much thinner and softer than real denim.
Weight: light to medium weight.
Construction: plain weave. The yarns are woven together tightly, so the gaps between each yarn are small.
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? no, it’s quite crisp.
See-through? no.
Uses: summer shirts and dresses.
Video:
Cotton cheesecloth
What is cheesecloth? it’s a lightweight, loosely woven fabric with a crinkled appearance.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: plain weave. The fabric is loosely woven, so you can see gaps between the yarns. You can get extra-fine weaves too which have more threads per inch/cm.
How it feels: it has a textured, crepe-like feel.
Drapey? it has some drape, but it’s not as drapey as chiffon or silk charmeuse.
See-through? no.
Uses: it’s mainly used to make cheese and tofu, strain stock, and thicken yogurt (source).
Cotton chenille
What is chenille? a thick, fuzzy fabric (or yarn) with a pile. Pile means the fabric is made from loops that are cut.
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
Construction: woven fabric.
How it feels: soft and furry.
Drapey? yes.
See-through? no.
Uses: robes, sweaters, blankets, upholstery, bedding, and pillows.
Video:
Cotton chino
What is chino? a durable, twill weave fabric with a slight sheen. Sometimes elastane/lycra is added to make the fabric stretchy and more comfortable, making it ideal for slim-fitting chino pants.
Weight: it varies.
Construction: twill weave, so it has fine diagonal ribs. The fabric is immersed in a solution to give it a slight sheen (this process is called mercerization).
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? no, it’s structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: pants/trousers, skirts, jackets, and military uniforms.
Video:
Cotton chintz
What is chintz? in its raw form, chintz is a tightly woven cotton with a shiny glaze on it. It’s often printed with a traditional floral print for use in furnishing.
Weight: medium weight.
Construction: plain weave. The yarns are woven together tightly, so the gaps between each yarn are small.
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? no, it’s quite crisp.
See-through? no.
Uses: upholstery for armchairs, sofas, and curtains.
Cotton corduroy
What is corduroy? it’s a pile fabric with raised ribs. The ribs run vertically and are evenly spaced.
Corduroys are grouped based on how many ribs they have per inch:
- Feathercord: 20-25 ribs per inch.
- Pinwale: 16-23 ribs per inch.
- Regular wale: 14 ribs per inch.
- Wide wale: 6-10 ribs per inch.
- Broad wale: 3-5 ribs per inch.
(source)
Weight: it varies. You can get light to heavyweight versions.
Construction: woven fabric with a pile. Pile means the fabric is made from loops that are cut.
How it feels: it has a smooth pile, but you can feel the bumpy raised ribs.
Drapey? no, corduroy is structured. Lighter weight corduroys have a bit more drape, but not as much drape as chiffon or silk charmeuse.
See-through? no.
Uses: lighter weight corduroys are great for dresses and shirts. Medium to heavyweight corduroys suit trousers, coats, and upholstery.
Video:
Cotton crepe
What is crepe? lightweight fabric with a pebble-surface texture and crinkles. It has similarities to gauze.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: woven fabric with quite a loose weave (so there are gaps between each yarn). The crinkled texture is created “using high twist yarns, textured yarns, special weaves, chemical treatments or embossing” (source).
How it feels: it generally has a dry, crinkled texture, but some are softer.
Drapey? yes.
See-through? it has some transparency.
Uses: bridal gowns, evening wear, and summer tops and dresses with a loose fit.
Cotton crossweave
What is crossweave? it’s when different colored warp and weft yarns are woven together to create a multi-colored fabric.
Weight: it varies. My samples in the photo are medium weight.
Construction: plain weave.
How it feels: my samples had a ‘dry’, slightly textured feel.
Drapey? no, it’s quite crisp.
See-through? no.
Uses: casual shirts and summer jackets.
Cotton damask
What is damask? it’s a general term used to describe fabrics with contrasting shiny and dull patterns. The fabric is reversible.
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
Construction: it’s a woven fabric made on a jacquard loom. The shiny parts of the fabric are made using a satin weave, and the dull parts are made using a plain, twill, or sateen weave. (source).
Drapey? no, it’s quite structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: evening dresses and jackets, upholstery, curtains, sheets, table runners, and napkins.
Cotton denim
What is denim? it’s a sturdy twill weave fabric, often made with blue, grey, or white yarns. Often elastane or lycra are added to make it stretchy and more comfortable.
‘Selvedge/selvage denim’ has a self-finished edge, a tighter weave, and it’s a narrower width (more info here).
‘Raw denim’ isn’t washed after it’s dyed, so it has a more natural look over time as it fades.
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
Construction: twill weave, so it has subtle diagonal ribs.
How it feels: it has a dry, slightly textured feel from the small ribs.
Drapey? no, it’s structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: jeans, shorts, skirts, structured dresses, dungarees, and jackets.
Video:
Cotton double gauze
What is double gauze? two layers of thin cotton are attached together with tiny, barely visible stitches every 3/8″ or so. It has a soft and crinkly texture which you can leave as it is, or iron it flat.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: woven fabric with a loose weave (which means there are small gaps between each yarn).
How it feels: soft with a gentle, crinkled texture.
Drapey? yes.
See-through? no.
Uses: summer tops and dresses, skirts, loungewear, light blankets, baby clothes, and baby swaddles.
Video:
Cotton drill
What is drill? it’s a durable fabric with obvious diagonal ribs.
Weight: it varies.
Construction: diagonal weave. This is similar to twill weave, but the diagonal ribs are more obvious because of the coarser yarn count used. This also adds durability to the fabric. (source).
How it feels: it has some texture. You’ll feel little bumps as your hand moves over the ribbed surface.
Drapey? no, it’s quite structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: khakis, army uniforms, shirts, safari jackets, chef coats, and sneakers.
Video:
Cotton flannel
What is flannel? a soft fabric where one or both sides have a fuzzy feel, making it ideal for cold weather. This fuzzy effect is achieved either by brushing the fabric, or through it’s loosely spun weave.
Flannel can be plain, but it’s often made with a plaid or tartan print.
Weight: it varies. Flannel button-down shirts are normally made using light to medium weight flannel.
Construction: woven fabric with a relatively loose weave (this means there are small gaps between the yarns).
How it feels: one or both sides are soft and fluffy.
Drapey? the lighter weight ones are drapey, but heavyweight ones for ‘shirt-jackets’ (aka. ‘shackets’) are less drapey.
See-through? no.
Uses: button-down shirts, pajamas, dresses, children’s clothing, jackets, and sheets. I made these pajama shorts using light to medium weight brushed cotton.
Video:
Cotton fleece
What is fleece? a soft, fluffy fabric with a brushed pile surface on one or both sides. Note: a ‘pile’ is a layer of cut fibers.
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
How it feels: the brushed side is soft, fluffy, and warm.
Drapey? no, my heavyweight sample in the picture has body / structure.
See-through? no.
Uses: cold weather clothing, fleece jackets, sweatshirts, and blankets.
Video:
Cotton french terry
What is french terry? it’s a stretchy knit fabric. The front is smooth and the back has loops.
Weight: medium weight.
Construction: knitted.
How it feels: soft.
Drapey? no, it has some body/structure.
See-through? no.
Uses: loungewear and gym clothes like sweatpants, hoodies, sweatshirts, and shorts.
Video:
Cotton gabardine
What is gabardine? it’s a tightly woven twill weave fabric, so it has fine diagonal ribs. It’s water-resistant and sometimes has a sheen. Elastane/lycra is often added to make it stretchy and more comfortable for pants/trousers.
Weight: medium.
Construction: twill weave, so it has diagonal ribs on it.
How it feels: quite smooth, but there is a very subtle texture from the twill weave.
Drapey? no, it’s quite structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: trousers, blazers, jackets, suits, and coats (especially trench coats).
Video:
Cotton gauze
What is gauze? it’s a lightweight, loosely woven, and see-through fabric. Gauze is a type of muslin fabric.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: plain weave. The fabric is loosely woven, so you can see small gaps between the yarns.
How it feels: soft and light.
Drapey? yes.
See-through? yes.
Uses: it suits loose and unstructured summer clothing like dresses and blouses. It’s also used for baby swaddles and sheer curtains.
Cotton gingham
What is gingham? it’s a check print that’s woven or printed onto the fabric. It’s normally white and one other color.
Weight: light to medium weight.
Construction: plain weave.
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? there’s some drape, but some cotton gingham’s are crisper.
See-through? no.
Uses: summer tops and dresses, aprons, children’s clothing, shirts, and tablecloths.
Cotton herringbone
What is herringbone? it describes a fishbone pattern woven into the fabric.
Weight: it varies. I have seen lightweight herringbone shirts and heavyweight herringbone upholstery fabric.
Construction: broken twill weave.
How it feels: slightly textured.
Drapey? generally no, it’s quite structured, especially the heavier weight versions.
See-through? no.
Uses: suits, jackets, dresses, upholstery, curtains.
Cotton jacquard
What is jacquard? a raised surface pattern woven into fabric. The pattern itself can vary; my sample above shows diamonds, but florals are also very popular.
Weight: it varies. I have seen lightweight jacquard kaftans and heavyweight jacquard upholstery.
Construction: jacquard weave.
How it feels: it’s textured on both sides, thanks to the raised pattern.
Drapey? generally no, it’s quite structured, especially the heavyweight versions.
See-through? no.
Uses: dresses, skirts, pants/trousers, evening gowns and jackets, sarees, upholstery, and curtains.
Video:
Cotton jersey
What is jersey? it’s a general word to describe many types of knitted fabrics. By ‘knitted’ I mean fabric that’s made from yarns interlinked together with loops. This can be done by hand or by machine.
Single jersey is made from plain knit on one side and purl knit on the other.
If it has been mercerized it means it was immersed in a solution that removed the fuzzy surface of the fabric or fiber, giving it a smoother and more lustrous look. Double mercerized means that both the fabric and the yarn have been treated. (source).
Jersey sweatshirt fabric has a plain knit on the front and a brushed loop-back on the reverse. It’s thicker and warmer, making it ideal for sweatshirts and hoodies.
Double jersey is made from plain knit on both sides, and it can weigh twice as much. It tends to be more stable than single jersey and won’t unravel when cut.
Interlock jersey is a type of double jersey, made from 2 interconnected rib fabrics. The most common type of interlock jersey is a 1×1 interlock with plain knitting on both sides and fine ribs.
If the interlock jersey was knitted on a circular knitting machine it’s called tubular fabric.
An issue you might have if you make clothes with this fabric is ‘spiralling’. This means that after you wash it, the fabric might become distorted and the side seam will twist (so it won’t be vertical anymore). This is a bigger risk if the fabric is lightweight. A solution to this is to cut open the tubular fabric and pass it through a hot-air cabinet to stabilize it; this is called stenting (source).
Weight: it varies from light to heavyweight.
How it feels: soft, smooth, and stretchy.
Drapey? the lighter weight ones have some drape, but some do stand away from the body (in other words, they have some structure). Heavyweight jersey sweatshirt fabric is structured, not drapey.
See-through? no.
Uses: t-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies, casual dresses, baby clothes.
Cotton lawn
What is cotton lawn? it’s a lightweight, semi-transparent fabric that’s crisper than voile, but not as crisp as organdie.
The word lawn might also refer to a starched crisp finish used on many fabrics.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: plain weave. It uses a fine, high thread count yarn that’s either carded or combed.
Carded cotton only goes through the basic process of brushing raw/washed fibers before it’s spun, giving the fabric a more ‘raw’ feel. Combed cotton has been through more processing (combing) giving it a smoother finish.
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? no, it’s quite structured and crisp.
See-through? yes. The transparency can range from being see-through to almost non-see-through.
Uses: summer shirts, tops and dresses. Lightweight cotton lawn isn’t very durable so it suits looser, unstructured styles.
Video:
Cotton rib knit
What is rib knit fabric? it’s a ribbed fabric with a lot of ‘mechanical’ stretch and recovery thanks to the way it’s constructed.
If the rib knit was knitted on a circular machine, you might have issues with ‘spiralling’. This means that after you wash it, the fabric might become distorted and the side seam will twist (so it won’t be vertical anymore). This is a bigger risk if the fabric is lightweight (source).
Weight: it varies.
Construction: knitted. Rib knits have all the loops on some wales (ribs) on the front, and all the loops on the remaining wales on the back. If the rib structures are equal on both sides you’ll get the best stretch and recovery. For example, 2×2 ribs (the grey sample pictured above is a 2×2 rib).
How it feels: the ribs create a texture. Many feel soft, but some heavyweight ones are rougher.
Drapey? the rib knit cuffs are more structured, but my lightweight all-over rib fabrics have drape.
See-through? no.
Uses: the cuffs and waistbands of sweatshirts, hoodies, and sweatpants. All-over rib fabrics are often used for tight-fitting dresses, tops, and baby clothes.
Cotton madras
What is madras? a handwoven cotton fabric with plaid, checks, or stripes. The pattern is made using semi-permanent vegetable dyes that bleed to create soft and muted colors. A fabric can only be called madras if it comes from the Madras region in India (source).
Weight: light to medium weight.
Construction: woven fabric.
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? there’s some drape and some body/structure.
See-through? no.
Uses: shirts and dresses.
Cotton moleskin
What is moleskin? it’s a densely woven fabric with a soft, brushed side that feels a bit like suede. It’s strong and thick. The best moleskin uses fine threads from long-staple cotton. (source 1 and 2).
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
Construction: tightly woven twill weave.
How it feels: one side is a bit smoother with a subtle texture from the twill weave. The other side is brushed, so it’s soft and suede-like.
Drapey? no, it’s structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: cold-weather protection clothes, sportswear, sports coats, pants/trousers, etc.
Cotton mousseline
What is mousseline? it’s a generic word to describe many types of fabric that are very lightweight, soft, and look similar to muslin (source).
Cotton muslin
What is muslin? a lightweight, loosely woven fabric often used to make test garments or to add internal structure to a garment. In the UK, the thicker version of this fabric is called calico.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: plain weave. It’s loosely woven, so you can see gaps between each yarn.
How it feels: it feels a bit rougher than cotton voile.
Drapey? it’s slightly crisp and stiff.
See-through? yes.
Uses: making toiles (test garments), lining, interlining, and straining cheese and sauces.
Video:
Cotton organdie / organdy
What is organdie? a see-through, lightweight, and very crisp fabric.
It’s sometimes confused with organza, which shares its structured quality, but organza is made from silk and manmade fibers, not cotton.
Cotton organdie also crushes and holds wrinkles a lot more than organza.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: plain weave. The fabric is loosely woven so you can see small gaps between the yarns. The yarns themselves are very fine and tightly twisted, giving the fabric a crisp and structured character.
How it feels: very stiff and paper-like.
Drapey? no, it’s very structured and stiff.
See-through? yes.
Uses: it’s often used as an overlay on dresses, blouses, collars, and petticoats. It’s a good sew-in interlining/interfacing to add structure to areas of a garment. It’s also used to add a decorative finish to home furnishings.
(Organdie information sources 1, 2 & 3).
Oxford cotton
What is oxford cotton? according to shirtmaker Emma Willis, “oxford cotton is created by weaving the cotton yarn in a certain way giving a textured rather than smooth finish”.
“There are different types, starting with the classic Oxford, then the finer Prince Oxford, which has a slight sheen and more conspicuous weave.” (source). Note: conspicuous means clearly visible.
Weight: light to medium weight.
Construction: woven fabric.
How it feels: quite smooth with a bit of texture in some types.
Drapey? no, it’s quite structured, but not stiff.
See-through? no.
Uses: shirts, pajamas, skirts, and sportswear.
Cotton pique
What is pique? a knitted fabric with a tiny, textured pattern. The tiny gaps in the pattern make it a breathable fabric. It’s mostly used to make polo shirts.
Weight: it varies.
Construction: according to this book, it’s generally knitted, but I’ve seen stores selling woven versions too. My sample (pictured above) had some stretch in both directions, but it wasn’t very stretchy.
How it feels: there’s a subtle texture.
Drapey? there’s some drape, but not as much as chiffon for example.
See-through? no.
Uses: polo shirts and shorts.
Plaid cotton
What is plaid? Clain, a Scottish fabric retailer, explains:
“Plaids are any crisscross patterns of two or more colours;
Tartans are plaids with a name to identify a community;
Checks are plaids with a regular pattern, usually of only two colours.”
“Flannel” is sometimes confused with plaid prints, but flannel is actually a type of fabric. It’s a soft, woven material with a fluffy side. It’s often made with a plaid pattern which causes the confusion.
PS. I have a whole post on plaid and tartan sewing ideas.
Cotton plisse
What is plisse? a solution is used to shrink parts of the fabric, creating a puckered texture. Different designs can be made using this technique like crinkles, pleats, and dots.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: woven fabric.
How it feels: textured.
Drapey? there’s some drape, but not as much as chiffon for example.
See-through? some are semi-transparent and some are non-see-through.
Uses: summer dresses, tops, and tunics.
Pointelle cotton
What is pointelle? knit fabrics with a regular pattern of holes. The pattern is normally geometric.
Weight: it varies. Pointelle jersey is normally lightweight, but I have seen thicker sweaters with larger pointelle designs too.
Construction: knitted fabric.
How it feels: soft and stretchy.
Drapey? yes.
See-through? the fabric itself isn’t, but the holes are see-through.
Uses: t-shirts, cardigans, pajamas, children’s clothing, and sweaters.
Cotton poplin
What is poplin? a crisp fabric with very fine ribs and a subtle sheen.
Weight: light to medium weight.
Construction: plain weave. It has very subtle horizontal ribs because the warp yarns are closer together and finer than the weft yarns.
How it feels: smooth and crisp.
Drapey? no, it’s structured and crisp.
See-through? no.
Uses: lightweight poplins are often used to make buttoned shirts and structured dresses. Medium weight poplins suit trousers.
Video:
Quilting cotton
What is quilting cotton? a medium weight and sturdy fabric used to make quilts. It comes in lots of fun prints and colors.
Weight: medium weight.
Construction: plain weave. The fabric is not woven as tightly as other kinds of cotton, like poplin.
How it feels: a little rougher than fabrics used for clothing.
Drapey? no, it’s quite structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: it’s mainly used to make quilts. If you want to make clothes from it, make a structured style because the fabric will stand away from your body, not drape.
Video:
Cotton sateen
What is cotton sateen? cotton that’s woven with a sateen-weave has a smooth surface and a dull sheen. Sometimes the yarns are immersed in a solution to increase the sheen (this process is called mercerization).
Weight: it varies.
Construction: sateen weave, giving it a subtle shine in the light. It normally uses finer yarn counts and a high thread count (which means more threads per inch/cm).
How it feels: smooth and structured.
Drapey? no, it’s structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: bed sheets, home decor, and structured clothing.
Videos:
Here’s a medium weight stretchy cotton sateen with 3% spandex.
Cotton seersucker
What is seersucker? a lightweight fabric with alternating crinkled and smooth stripes. This cotton fabric does not need ironing.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: woven fabric.
How it feels: textured.
Drapey? there’s some drape, but it’s still a little structured.
See-through? no.
Uses: summer suits, dresses, and tops.
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Cotton ticking
What is ticking? a densely woven fabric with stripes. Traditionally it was woven with narrow even stripes in navy, black, or cream and made for mattresses and pillows. Today you can get it in more stripe patterns and colors (source).
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
Construction: ticking can be made using plain, twill, or herringbone weaves. My samples in the pictures were made with a herringbone weave (it has a v-shape pattern). The fabric is tightly woven.
How it feels: smooth with a tiny bit of texture from the herringbone weave (in my sample).
Drapey? it’s quite structured, but medium weight ones have enough drape for curtains.
See-through? no.
Uses: upholstery projects like curtains, blinds, decorative cushions, and covering chairs. I have seen some structured clothing made from ticking too.
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Cotton terry towelling / terry cloth
What is towelling? it’s a highly absorbent fabric with loops, often used to make towels, robes, and baby items.
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
Construction: it can be woven or knitted.
How it feels: soft and fluffy.
Drapey? some drape.
See-through? no.
Uses: towels, bathrobes, burp cloths, and bibs (normally toweling is just used on the back of burp cloths and bibs).
Video:
Note: this fabric is 94% cotton and 6% polyester.
Cotton twill
What is twill? it’s a type of weave. All twill fabrics have diagonal lines (called ribs or wales) on the front. On heavyweight fabrics the lines are clear to see, but on some lightweight fabrics they’re very subtle.
Twill weaves are normally harder-wearing than plain weaves made using the same yarn and thread count, so they suit high-use utility and casualwear. They also tend to recover from wrinkles better.
Herringbone, houndstooth, and Scottish tartan designs are made using a twill-weave construction too.
Examples of twill weave fabrics are denim, gabardine, drill, and chino.
Weight: you can get this fabric in many weights, from light to heavy.
How it feels: Heavyweight fabrics with a more obvious twill weave feel more textured as your hand moves over the bigger, thicker ribs. Lightweight twill weaves have finer ribs, so they’re smoother.
Uses: lightweight versions are used for shirts, and heavyweight versions are used for trousers, traditional trench coats, etc.
Cotton velvet / velveteen
What is velvet? a fabric with a thick, short, plush pile. Pile means the fabric is made from loops that are cut.
Note: velvets today are normally made using a combination of fibres, like cotton, silk, viscose, polyester, etc.
Weight: you can get this fabric in many weights, from light to heavy.
Construction: it’s a pile fabric. The warp yarns are woven oven rods. The rods are removed and the loops that are left behind are cut to create the pile.
Velveteen is made in a similar way, except this process is done to the weft yarns.
How it feels: you can get velvets with a smooth texture, and some with a stiff feel. The back has a subtle texture, and the front (with the pile) has a smooth feel when you’re moving your hand in a downward direction. When you move your hand up, it pushes the pile yarns up and feels a bit rougher/more textured.
Drapey? it’s quite structured, but there’s enough drape for curtains.
See-through? no.
Uses: lightweight velvet suits dresses, but not drapey designs like cowl necks. Medium weight velvet is good for trousers, suits, and hats. Medium to heavyweight velvet suits cushions and curtains.
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Cotton velour
What is velour? a stretchy pile fabric with a sheen. Pile means the fabric is made from loops that are cut. It’s different to velvet because it’s knitted, not woven, so it can stretch.
Weight: it varies.
Construction: knitted fabric with a pile.
How it feels: soft and stretchy.
Drapey? yes.
See-through? no.
Uses: hoodies, tracksuits, figure-hugging dresses, jumpsuits, pants/trousers, pillows, and blankets.
Video:
Note: this fabric is 80% cotton and 20% polyester.
Cotton voile
What is voile? a light and see-through fabric with a net-like appearance.
Weight: lightweight.
Construction: plain weave.
How it feels: smooth.
Drapey? yes.
See-through? yes.
Uses: dresses, nightgowns, blouses, lingerie, lightweight curtains, lining, toiles (test garments), and embroidery.
Video:
Cotton waffle / honeycomb
What is cotton waffle / honeycomb? it’s an absorbent fabric with a pattern of raised square outlines.
Weight: medium to heavyweight.
How it feels: textured.
Uses: towels, dishtowels, robes, bedding, crib covers, baby bibs, and quilt backings.
Video:
Windowpane cotton
What is windowpane cotton? it describes fabrics with a box pattern.
Uses: shirts, dresses, scarves, and upholstery.
Related: 18+ Types of Cotton Fabric for Shirts & 58 Example Photos!
Sources
C. Hallett and A. Johnston (2014). ‘Fabric for fashion: the swatch book’ 2016 edition. Laurence King Publishing, London.
Cotton Incorporated. ‘Types of cotton fabric’. [online] Available at: https://thefabricofourlives.com/cotton-fabrics [accessed: 25 Oct 2020]
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The Drapers Daughter (2016). ‘Crossweave Fabrics Explained’. [online] Available at: https://drapersdaughter.com/blogs/news/105234758-crossweave-fabrics-explained [accessed: 25 Oct 2020]
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Charles S. Whewell and Edward Noah Abrahart (2020). ‘Conversion to yarn’ [online] Available at: https://www.britannica.com/topic/textile/Conversion-to-yarn [accessed: 26 Oct 2020]
Cloth Spot. ‘‘Gamine’ classic black stretch bengaline fabric’. [online] Available at: https://clothspot.co.uk/product/gamine-classic-black-stretch-bengaline-fabric/ [27 Oct 2020]
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Charu Creation Pvt. Ltd. (2020). ‘What is the difference between Cotton Poplin, Cotton Cambric and Cotton Voile?’. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_2-_twQBtg
Whaleys (Bradford) LTD. ‘Cheesecloth fabric’. [online] Available at: https://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/cheesecloth [accessed: 27 Oct 2020]
Todd Shelton (2019). ‘What is Selvedge Denim?’. [online] Available at: https://toddshelton.com/blog/products/jeans/selvage-denim [accessed: 30 Oct 2020]
K. Whittle (2016). ‘Sewing with Double Cotton Gauze: Colette ♥ Cotton+Steel’. [online] Available at: https://blog.colettehq.com/fabric/cs-x-colette-double-gauze [accessed: 31 Oct 2020]
MasterClass. ‘Fabric 101: What Is Muslin? How to Use and Care for Muslin’. [online] Available at: https://www.masterclass.com/articles/fabric-101-what-is-muslin-how-to-use-and-care-for-muslin [last updated: 2 Oct 2020]
Whaleys (Bradford) LTD. ‘Organdie’. [online] Available at: https://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/a-z/organdie-fabric [accessed: 1 Nov 2020]
fashionbeans.com. ‘The best oxford shirt (ocbd) guide you’ll ever read’. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/ocbd-oxford-shirt-guide/ [accessed: 1 Nov 2020]
CLAREDELATORRE (2019). [online] Available at: https://blog.tinsmiths.co.uk/05/27/ticking-fabrics/ [accessed: 3 Nov 2020]